![]() But where the layouts track plan is considered to be OK and permanent, then seriously consider adding a DCC bus pair of wires and smaller wire size dropper wires Bus to rail. ![]() Point clips are only suitable IMO on non permanent layouts, where track design may change or the track has to be lifted and relaid frequently. Points outer stock rails too!ĭiamond crossings do not need Hornby point clips, neither any special wiring, as basically they are two straight through tracks crossing each other, but the Hornby versions do suffer from excessive plastic in the frog area! Which can cause stalling or stuttering. In fact fishplates should really only be used to connect the abutting rails and not be relied upon to pass power and data!īest practice on a permanent DCC layout has dropper wires connecting to every piece of tracks rails to the Bus pair. These rail joiners are always the "Weak Link" in the distribution system around the layout. The track is still relying on each metal rail joiner (fishplate) passing power, and data on DCC, rail to rail. Reliance on power clips and conversion of Insulated frog point (Hornby ones) by adding 'staples' - Point Clips is considered to be a poor way of improving DCC power and date transmission rail to rail. It is basically "Best Practice" which has been advocated by many modellers for years! Its 100% correct, as any Insulated frog point, regardless of make, can cause running problems and by moving to Electrofrog points (not sold by Hornby!) and adding a DCC power bus pair of two wires and droppers connecting the Bus to the rails above, can only improve running by 100%. IMO morairamike has hit the proverbial nail on the head with their comments. I hadn't built the required diode diode relay network leg into the original set up. Use a buss, use electro points, use separate relays or switches to switch the frog polarity.Ī side benefit from this update is I've found why one combination of 3 points left the associated light signals blank. 10 of my 14 points are now sorted 4 more to do. My solution which is being incorporated this weekend, uses switching relays, triggered by the control box to switch frog polarity. All worked well for 2 years, then I started to have problems with frog switching and investigation showed that the contacts had worn or were out of alignment. I also opted for SEEP motors with auxiliary contacts to switch the frog polarity. I changed from isol points to electro frog points, using a home designed control box to activate them. Every piece of track is connected to the power buss so fishplates only keep the track together, and are not the prime power transfer medium. This time from the off a track power buss, radiating in two directions from the controller to the access flap. I moved my layout into a bigger room and started again from scratch. My first DCC layout was plagued with power problems, I used power clips, diamond crossings and relied on fishplates and point clips to transfer power.
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